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 | Rome Off the Beaten Path | Tips 11 - 20 of 837 |  |
There are several interpretations for the name of this colossal statue of a river god. In one explanation, it was found in Foro Romano together with the inscription "Mare in Foro". In another, it was found in Mars Fori (Foro di Marte). In the last etymology, the name derived from the Marfoli family's property where it was found. In spite of the diverse origins, all historians agreed that Marforio dates back to the first century BC.
Pope Sisto V Peretti placed Marforio in Palazzo dei Conservatori in Campidoglio before Pope Innocenzo X Pamphilij moved it to the courtyard of Palazzo del Museo Capitolino.
Marforio was the second talking statue in the Congress of the Witty (Congresso degli Arguti). Through their "conversations", he and Pasquino often showed contempt at the rulers who control the people's destiny.
Here are their comments on Pope Clemente XI Albani, who came from the town of Urbino in Marche:
Marforio: Dimmi che fai, Pasquino? (What are you doing, Pasquino?)
Pasquino: Eh, guardo Roma che non vada ad Urbino. (I'm watching Rome so it wouldn't move to Urbino.)
They jabbed at Napoleon Bonaparte, as well:
Marforio: È vero che i francesi sono tutti ladri?
Pasquino: Tutti no, ma buona parte!
(Note: Out of respect to VT members from France, I am not going to translate that particular exchange!)
Marforio is located in the courtyard of Capitoline Museum. Leave a Comment |
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Certainly one of the most famous little fountains in Rome, Fountain of the Porter was originally mounted on the wall of Palazzo de' Carolis on Via del Corso and moved around the corner to Via Lata in 1874. Although it was attributed to Michelangelo, some researchers believe it's actually the work of Jacopo Del Conte who lived in the house above the fountain, designed, and built it at the end of the XVI century.
The statue shows a man dressed in the exact manner of a water porter, a character in that epoch who, for a few liras, brought in water from the fountain or the Tiber to the local folks. (This particular trade ended when Pope Gregorio XIII Boncompagni ordered all the antique aqueducts repaired.)
There are many legends behind the model of this water bearer. In one tale, the man was Abbondio Rizio who was famous for his strength as well as his ability to carry and drink a great deal of wine. In another story, he was the German theologist Martin Lutero.
Whoever he was, this man whose face is almost all gone is part of "the talking statues" -- Pasquino, Marforio, Madama Lucrezia, Abate Luigi and Babbuino are the other members - and he is well loved by the Romans who see their spirit and soul reflect in his strength and image. During the XVII century, he was the popular voice through which the Romans spoke against the authorities.
Facchino is located at the corner of Via del Corso and Via Lata. Leave a Comment |
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In 1501, Cardinal Oliviero Carafa decided to make Parione district the social center of the city. He took over Palazzo Orsini and ordered Donato Bramante to restore the palace. During this work, a marble statue was discovered in the foundation.
The unidentified statue was dated between the end of the IV century BC and the beginning of the III century BC. It had neither legs nor arms. The face was without a nose and the eyes were ghost-like. Nevertheless, the Cardinal found it appealing. He put it on a marble pedestal with his heraldry and an epigraph that stated, "Erected by Oliviero Carafa in 1501 Year of the Lord".
There were four theories for the name Pasquino. The satirical poet Teofilo Folengo said it was a tavern in the quarter. The poet Antonio Tebaldeo said it was a tailor with an open criticism of the Pope and all the clergy. The social reformer Celio Secondo Curione said it was a witty barber whose shop was used for all debates. Finally, publisher Giacomo Mazzocchi asserted the last explanation: it belonged to an unfortunate gym teacher whose name was repeatedly pasted on the statue by his mischievous students.
Each April 25, Cardinal Oliviero chaired a Latin literary competition in which sonnets were posted on the statue. The residents carried on with the practice of adapting literary poems into satire. Thus was born the term "pasquinata": a short satire exhibited in a public place. (In English, "pasquinade.")
That's how Pasquino became the first talking statue of Rome. He spoke out about the people's dissatisfaction, he denounced injustice, and he assaulted the nepotistic system and the misgovernment of the Church. When Pasquino was tired of talking to himself, other statues appeared on the scene. The Congress of the Witty (Congresso degli Arguti) was formed, with Pasquino always the leader, and Marforio, Abate Luigi, Madamma Lucrezia, Facchino and Babbuino as his cohorts.
Pasquino is located at the corner of Piazza di Pasquino and Palazzo Braschi, on the west side of Piazza Navona. Leave a Comment |
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Most visitors to Rome never see this church, or even hear of it, for that matter. It's just one of the more than 900 churches in Rome, most of which never get visited.
Yet it is incredibly beautiful and has a wonderful, interesting history. The polished red marble columns alone are enough to make my knees week! The altar and tabernacle by Rainaldi is impossibly, beautifully ornate.
So what and where is this little gem of a church?
Santa Maria della Scala (of the stairs), in Trastevere, the now trendy working-class neighborhood. Trastevere literally means "across the Tevere" or the Tiber River, from the historical center of Rome. The church is not far from the more famous Santa Maria in Trastevere.
Next to the church (on the right as you face it) is a preserved antique pharmacy from the 18th century, which used to service the Vatican.
For more information on the church, the reason for it's creation, and the pharmacy and how to visit it, see:
Farmacia
and
Church
Like many churches in Rome, it is closed between noon and 4 p.m. most days.
An interesting sidelight of this church involves my favorite painter, Caravaggio. He was commissioned to produce a painting for the church; the subject was the death of the virgin. The work was rejected (this happened to Caravaggio a lot, he was always getting in trouble.) In this case, perhaps because the model for the virgin was a prostitute, perhaps because her legs were exposed, or perhaps because her belly was too realistically swollen in death. In any event, the painting now hangs in the Louvre. You can see a copy of it here.
Death of the Virgin
(click on the small painting for an enlargement, then click on "Fit Width" at the top)
Address: 23 Piazza della Scala, Trastevere
Less than 300 meters northwest of Santa Maria in Trastevere, where Via della Scala turns into Piazza della Scala. Leave a Comment |
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Less than a two minute walk from Santa Maria Maggiore, one of the "pilgrim" basilicas, and one of the most famous churches in Rome, stands a smaller jewel of a church - Santa Prassede. Don't miss what may be the best mosaics you'll find in Rome.
The picture I've included is of the apse mosaic behind the main alter. My camera couldn't do justice to the Chapel of St. Zeno, to the right of the altar as you face it. Bring along some .50 euro coins to turn on the lights and be prepared to be delighted. It is literally like stepping inside a jeweled box. The mosaics date from the 9th century and are in the Byzantine style, which is uncommon in Rome. You'll see a resemblance to the mosaics of Santa Cecelia in Trastevere if you go there.
You'll also find a broken marble pillar, said to have been brought back to Rome by St. Helen, the mother of Constantine, the first Christian Roman Emperer. It is supposed to be the pillar at which Jesus was scourged before he was crucified.
The floor, which is 20th century, is still an exquisite version of the Cosmati floors.
If you take a look at the photo, you'll see most of the halos are round - but the one on the far left is square. This indicates that the person being represented wasn't dead at the time the mosaic was being completed.
Address: 9/a Via de Santa Prassede/Via San Martino ai Monti
Normally open daily 07.30-12.00 and 16.00-18.30.
For more information check out:
Santa Prassede Leave a Comment Phone: 06 48 82 456 |
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You found the Fountain of the Turtles! Congratulations! It must mean you've been wandering Rome, as it's not on the well beaten path. It was designed by Giacomo della Porta (but Bernini added the turtles). Della Porta was an important sculptor and architect who finished Michelangelo's Dome of St. Peter's.
If you go to see the three famous Carravaggio paintings on the life of St. Matthew at the church San Luigi dei Francesi (St. Louis of the French), you'll be in another della Porta building - well, the facade anyway.
This fountain was completed in 1585 and the water comes from the Acqua Vergine, said to contain the best water of all the aquaducts. It is so charming, it always makes me smile when I see it.
UPDATE, MARCH 5, 2006: VT member Baronedivandastad had been torturing me for months....he knew a secret about the fountain, but he wouldn't tell me until we met for dinner in Rome. We finally met and with great fanfare, he disclosed the secret at a wonderful VT dinner in Testaccio. I think I'll keep the tradition. No telling of the secret unless we have dinner together in Rome!
If you want to look for the Fontana delle Tartarughe, see my directions below, but PROMISE me, you'll wander after you find it. The neighborhood is great for wandering. You're close to the Jewish Ghetto, a perfect excuse to stop for some artichokes fried in the Roman Jewish tradition. Or kosher pizza - yes, really.
The fountain is in Piazza Mattei. Find "Largo Argentina," the excavated Roman site, which is is on the south side of Corso Vittorio Emanuele II (just to the west of Piazza Venezia ). Piazza Mattei is just south of that. Leave a Comment |
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Even if you have no interest in art, even if you’ve never heard of Caravaggio, pay a visit to this church and the famous Contarelli Chapel (the first chapel on the left closest to the altar). If you’re near Piazza Navona, you’re less than 5 minutes away. Bring some coins with you to turn on the timed lights for the chapel.
The photo is of one of the three famous Caravaggio masterpieces – paintings on the life of St. Matthew, which marked a turning point in his career. This is the “Calling of St. Matthew” and shows the masterful technique for which Caravaggio is so famous – the use of light and dark – which so many followers imitated. Note the dark void between Christ (with the halo) and St. Peter, and Matthew the tax collector and his colleagues. And see how the dramatically lit hand of Christ visually and metaphorically crosses the void as he calls Matthew, and Matthew seems to say, “Who, me?”
The earliest of the three paintings is the one on the right, “The Martyrdom of St. Matthew”. The last was the altar piece "The Inspiration of St. Matthew." Matthew, one of the four gospel writers, as was customary, is pictured with an angel, just as Luke is usually pictured with an ox, John with an Eagle and Mark with a lion.
See this website for better reproductions of these and other works of Caravaggio.
http://www.wga.hu/index1.html<br />
Near the chapel, the church has placed a small display and explanation of the paintings in French, Italian and English.
The church (facade designed by Giacomo della Porta) is dedicated to St. Louis IX, king and patron saint of France, who lead the crusades. But the facade isn't stylistically representative of della Porta. It is relatively austere and static compared to Il Gesu'. One of my knowledgeable friends wonders if the French commission required something more sedate.
Address: 5 Piazza San Luigi dei Francesi / Via Santa Giovanna d'Arco. Between the Pantheon and Piazza Navona.
Hours: 8:00 a.m. to noon - 3:30 to 7:00 p.m. Leave a Comment Phone: 06-688-271 |
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In the swanky area of Via Venetto, just off Piazza Barberini, is a little church, Santa Maria della Concezione that would not be distinguishable from the hundreds of Roman churches if it wasn’t for its crypt. What’s special about that? All the ornaments are made with bones of deceased monks of the capuchins order. It is at the same time horrific, beautiful, funny and thought-provoking. It seems like the main goal of the “decorator” and the capuchins was to display Men’s Vanity. The entrance is free but a donation is appreciated. Leave a Comment |
UPDATE: Jan 2005 - open again after being closed for a year.
The slightly bizarre Capuchin Crypt in Santa Maria della Concezione, is located on Via Veneto, near Piazza Barberini. It's definitely worth a visit. Seven rooms deocorated with mosaics, designs, even lanterns hanging from the ceiling, made from thousands of the brothers' bones.
Yes, really their actual bones! Piles and piles of them. Rosettes made of hip bones and vertebrae. Arches made of skulls.
It's fascinating and creepy at the same time.
Most kids LOVE this place. Leave a Comment Phone: 06 - 487-1185Other Contact: Address: Via Vittorio Veneto, 27 |
Up on the Aventine hill above the forum, there is a nice walk to do… first visit the church of Sant' Anselmo with its lovely courtyard. Pass the Santa Sabina Church. Soon, you will see a building with a green door. This is the retreat of the Knights of Malta . The door is seldom open but you will surely notice some people peeping through a hole. They are not being too curious or impolite, they are just having one of Rome’s best view of St-Peter’s. I won’t say much about it, you’ll have to discover for yourself but to me, it’s one of Rome’s little treasure. Leave a Comment |
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on August 5, 2005
on April 1, 2006
on June 12, 2004
